Brian Banasek is determined to bring good food to downtown Mesa. As chef/owner of S’Bistro, he introduced escargot and foie gras to an area more accustomed to hot dogs than haute cuisine.
S’Bistro succumbed to the Great Recession, closing in January 2010 after a three-year run. Before the end of the year, though, Banasek (pictured above at S’Bistro) was back, taking over as manager and chef at downtown’s struggling de la Cruz Bistro.
Over the past year, Banasek has modernized de la Cruz’s decor and retooled the menu, and he’s currently negotiating to buy the wine bar and bistro.
Although his parents are from Europe and he was born in Toronto, Banasek grew up in Mesa, attended Seton and Mountain View high schools and graduated from the Scottsdale Culinary Institute.
His resume also includes stints at Whistler Blackcomb, a three-star ski resort in British Columbia, and Harrah’s Ak-Chin Casino near Chandler, where he built the world’s biggest gingerbread house in 2001.
I caught up with Banasek at de la Cruz Bistro this week.
Married, single, divorced?
Single. Be sure you put that – very single.
What did you want to be when you grew up?
A race car driver. I really did. My brother was a gear head. He had all these cars – nice Mustangs and Dusters and things like that.
What was your first job in food, and what did you learn from it?
I worked at a place not too far from here called Pasta Mesa. I think I started as a dishwasher and I moved really quick so they put me on the line.
What’s the biggest mistake you’ve ever made in the kitchen?
Up in Whistler, Canada, I had a really nice curry dish with linguine, and on top it had crushed peanuts. One of my techs that fixed all my fridges and things, he came in and said, “Hey, man, I’m really hungry. Could you fix me something?” And I said, “Yeah, I got something perfect for you.” So I cooked him up this dish and he took one bite of it and said, “Is there peanuts in here?” I said, “Yeah.” He said, “Oh my god, I’m so allergic to peanuts.” We had to call a doctor right away and he had to get the shot and all that. But he was alright – he didn’t die!
You’ve had two restaurants in downtown Mesa – S’Bistro and now de la Cruz. What’s the biggest challenge for a restaurant in downtown Mesa?
I think it’s the stereotypical thing about downtown Mesa – about there’s nothing really going on here. I grew up here. I’ve seen all the things that happen in downtown Mesa. It’s a matter of getting people down here.
You mentioned stereotypes. Does downtown Mesa suffer from an unfair image?
I think so. I think a lot of people see the Mesa dining experience as nil to none. We have Il Vinaio. We have the Thai restaurant, Nunthaporn’s, across the street. And then, of course, de la Cruz Bistro. Are we a Westcor mall with so many choices? No. But these are all kinda mom-and-pop places and every single place is unique. Do I want to see more restaurants in downtown Mesa? Of course. I’d like to see another five or six restaurants down here. That would be great for everybody.
What’s it going to take to finally get that to happen? Mesa has been trying to revitalize downtown for at least 25 years.
You can’t just throw a building and money into it. I think you need to support the people who are down here making it happen. The people who are down here day in and day out know the trends and see what’s working and what isn’t. You know, I’m really nervous about the light rail, but I’m also really excited about it because it’s gonna bring a whole new dynamic down here.
While at Whistler, you got the opportunity to cook for Britain’s Prince Charles and his sons, William and Harry. What was that like?
The funny thing was we had everything ready. We had venison, we had rack of lamb and filet mignon – all the top-notch stuff. And what did they order? Charles had a Greek salad and the boys ordered pizza.
How would you describe your cooking style?
That’s a tough one. I would say American contemporary with a French twist. I keep saying that “haute cuisine” type of deal, but I’m going more traditional, home-cooking, family-style – I’m kinda getting into that niche right now. I’m always trying to change my cooking.
Describe your ideal meal at de la Cruz Bistro
I’d go with the breaded calamari – that’s a good dish. Then the filet mignon or pistachio-encrusted rack of lamb, which I had last night – it was fantastic – and finish it off with a little creme brûlée.
Is there a dish you wish you could take off the menu but it’s just too damn popular?
Yeah, the baked Brie garlic. I wish I could get rid of that thing. I made that thing up in Whistler years and years ago. And that’s our No. 1 appetizer.
What’s the culinary trend you’d like to see die?
Cooking with microwaves. I don’t have a microwave here.
How do you feel about Yelp?
I like it. It’s kinda a sore subject with me. We had a lady in here and she ordered an Australian wine. We have two – one’s $33 and the other’s $130, and she ordered the wrong one. When she got her bill, she said, “I didn’t mean to order this.” Well, she gave me a bad Yelp review from right on my patio! The flip side is I get a lot of good reviews, too.
You’ve said you want to get a food truck. What’s the allure?
The allure is I’d like to get done with my restaurant here at night, pack up my truck and hit the road and feed another 200 to 300 people.
What area of the Valley do you live in, and what are your favorite places to eat there?
I live in downtown Mesa. I live literally walking distance from my restaurant. Where do I eat? You know what – and this is crazy – I like Mickey’s Hot Dogs. Every time I have a rough day, I jump in the car and drive to Mickey’s for a Sonoran dog and it puts a big smile on my face. Also, Il Vinaio is good. And the Thai place across the street.
What do you usually cook at home?
Petite filets – really quick, pan-seared, lots of peppercorns. Usually I don’t have all the ingredients for a sauce so I just do the peppercorns. Also, a garlic mashed potato or a scalloped potato. Then for dessert I usually have just one big scoop of ice cream.
Where do you see yourself in 10 years?
Hopefully in a big city like New York or L.A. Or back in Canada – I’d like to open a restaurant in Whistler. Or the Food Network. Iron Chef maybe. I don’t know.
De la Cruz Bistro, 10 W. Main St., Mesa, is open 11 a.m.-3 p.m. Thursday through Saturday for lunch, 5-10 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday for dinner and 10 a.m.-3 p.m. Sunday for brunch. 480-258-6942. www.delacruzbistro.net
