Storyline of Day 2: Crowded (again)
Much like Saturday, the crowded conditions of Devoured’s newly abbreviated layout again were the talk of Arizona’s premier culinary festival Sunday. (Notice how many people in the photo above actually are eating something?) It got so bad that lines couldn’t form at many restaurants’ tents simply because there wasn’t any room as the masses of humanity tried to wedge their way past. It was especially disappointing because Sunday was one of the best overall food days in the fest’s history.
Battle royale: Kai vs. District
Although Devoured is not a competition, Kai has dominated the event in recent years with amazing spreads of six, seven, or even eight “wow” dishes under the guidance of executive chef Michael O’Dowd. This year, though, a challenger arose. District American Kitchen, always a strong player at Devoured, upped its game to Kai’s level. It shouldn’t be a surprise considering District recently hired a new executive chef, one Michael O’Dowd (pictured). Adding to the fun, the two restaurants set up just a few feet apart Sunday.
In this corner: Kai
The Sheraton Wild Horse Pass Resort’s showcase restaurant, the state’s only Forbes Five Star Award and AAA Five Diamond Award winner, showed up with its typical array of temptations, including smoked Tasmanian sea trout and wild-game machaca (a mix of buffalo, boar, and venison) on Pima flatbread. Among the sweet offerings: sweet corn cheesecake, roasted date crème brûlée, and foie gras floats with currant jam and spiced pecans (pictured).
In this corner: District
The Downtown Sheraton’s restaurant countered with chorizo-laden mac ‘n’ cheese topped with cheese puffs (shown), buffalo and pulled pork sloppy joes, grilled lobster and sweet shrimp tortas, flaked whitefish rolled tacos, and pork machaca with churros. Both Kai and District also sent staffers into the crowds with trays of other treats. So who was the winner? Festival-goers, obviously.
Spiciest dish: Gallo Blanco
What the small chile de árbol lacks in size, it more than makes up for in potency. Just ask anyone who tried the Clarendon Hotel restaurant’s fiery goat tacos. I immediately beelined toward the nearest beverage tent. Runner-up honors go to Barrio Cafe’s tequila shrimp.
Most adventurous dish: Petite Maison
Leave it to chef James Porter to challenge diners with the fest’s most intimidating dish: lamb heart tartar (freshly ground on-site) with a quail egg, white anchovy, lemon, and a piece of rye toast. When I passed his tent, he exclaimed, “They’re eating it!”
Strangest dish: Beckett’s Table
I wasn’t quite sure how to approach this Phoenix restaurant’s deep-fried deviled egg with bacon and red onion. Dipping it in the accompanying hot sauce aioli was obvious, but the pickled vegetables seemed superfluous. I still can’t decide whether I liked it or not.
Best beverage: The Tuck Shop & Astor House
While The Tuck Shop was dishing out tasty braised beef cheek sliders, its younger sibling and tent-mate was passing out tiny bottles of Mornin’ Moonshine. The Japanese cold-brewed ice coffee is slightly sweeter and less acidic than typical coffee, refreshing on a warm day.
Cleverest dish: Pig & Pickle
This Scottsdale newcomer scored a hit with its Mini Elvis Spoons, a concoction of peanut butter cheesecake, strawberry jam, brûléed banana, and, of course, a piece of bacon. It was enough to bring The King back from the grave.
Best dessert: Proof
This Four Seasons restaurant, usually overshadowed by its fine-dining sibling Talavera, was serving made-to-order milkshakes in three flavors – Cerealist (made with breakfast cereal), strawberry shortcake, and orange creamsicle – as well as a refreshing caramel-chocolate root beer float (shown).
Best of show (fourth runner-up – tie): Hana Japanese
As it has in recent years, Hana again dazzled with a quartet of dishes, including this ankimo (made from the liver of a monkfish) slider topped with a quail egg and served with a slice of lemon.
Best of show (fourth runner-up – tie): Breadfruit
It seems like this underrated Jamaican eatery rises to the occasion every year. This time, it was a simple piece of tender calamari marinated in a tantalizing passion fruit, lime and ginger sauce.
Best of show (third runner-up): Citizen Public House
Chef Bernie Kantak’s cold slice of five-spice duckling ham – made by air-curing duck breast – was exquisite. The oatmeal-like “porridge” made from teff, an Ethopian grain, was a perfect complement.
Best of show (second runner-up): House of Tricks
One of the few East Valley restaurants at Devoured, House of Tricks paired two of the festival’s tastiest dishes: a rich duck pozole and a foie gras taco with pineapple, pickled shallots, and chipotle-caramel sauce.
Best of show (first runner-up): Atlas Bistro
I saw too many people make a face and decline to try this Scottsdale restaurant’s roasted bone marrow topped with crispy lamb belly confit and onion jam. It was their loss. Absolutely delicious.
Best of show: District
Score one for new chef O’Dowd. District’s mouthwatering “street pork machacas on churros” featured a bewitching blend of Arizona date and fig jam, smoked garlic and piquillo pepper puree, and chipotle crema. On a day full of memorable dishes, this one impressed me the most.
Related story: The hits (and misses) of the 2013 Devoured Culinary Classic – Day 1
