Q&A

Food for thought: David Bickford of PHX Rail Food blog

By Jess Harter Tuesday, August 9, 2022

David Bickford was looking for a unique angle for a new food blog in 2007 at the same time construction was underway on the Valley’s initial light rail line. Thus was born PHX Rail Food, a collection of Bickford’s reviews of more than 200 restaurants along the public transit path.

The New York state native isn’t a trained food journalist – he moved to the Valley after earning his master’s degree in library science from the University of North Carolina in 1989 – but he’s always had a strong interest in food and restaurants.

So when he’s not at his day job as the director of an academic library at a local university, you can find him munching on tacos or sipping pho at often-overlooked restaurants from downtown Phoenix to downtown Mesa.

What’s your favorite thing about living in the Valley?

‘‘The combination of urban attractions like museums, performing arts, and good restaurants (of course) and outdoor attractions like hiking trails and canal paths. Having both so accessible is a strong point for the region.’’

What did you want to be when you grew up?

‘‘I wanted to drive an ambulance. That’s incredibly different from the type of work I do now.’’

What was your first job?

‘‘Working part-time in my local public library.’’

What is your favorite hobby or pastime not related to food and drink?

‘‘Outdoor activities with my kids. That can take the form of hikes in the Phoenix Mountain Preserve or bike rides to the Uptown Farmers Market.’’

What’s something you are hilariously bad at?

‘‘Sports. I try to stay fit with bicycling and hiking, but I’m terrible at anything that involves a ball.’’

If you were forced to sing karaoke, what song would you choose?

‘‘‘TV Party’ by Black Flag, but I’d update the lyrics to include current shows and add references to binge watching to go with the binge drinking described in the original song.’’

Have you ever had a nickname?

‘‘I invented ‘exit2lef’ as a screen name based on the recorded announcements on light rail trains. As a train approaches a station, the synthetic voice usually says “exit to left.” For some reason, though, the “t” is muted, making it sound more like ‘exit to lef.’’’

What’s a skill you would like to learn?

‘‘Gardening. Every plant I touch dies.’’

What is one thing people would never guess about you?

‘‘A lot of people assume I live in downtown Phoenix. I actually live near Piestewa Peak. I’m a light rail enthusiast, but I also rely on walking, bicycling, buses, and our family car to get around.’’

If you could have dinner with any living person, who would it be?

‘‘My wife. With our jobs and children, sometimes it’s so difficult just to find time for the two of us to sit down and enjoy a calm meal with adult conversation.’’

What food or drink never gets old no matter how many times you’ve had it?

‘‘Peanut butter. I’ve loved it since I was a kid, and my enthusiasm has never waned. I have it most mornings on toast as part of my breakfast.’’

What food or drink do you love that a lot of people might find a little odd?

‘‘Goat milk yogurt. It’s my favorite dairy product to have with breakfast cereal, and I think it’s so much better than cow’s milk yogurt.’’

What food, drink, or ingredient do you hate that doesn’t seem to bother other people?

‘‘Eggs. I have no problem with them as an ingredient in baked goods or sauces, but I find them thoroughly unappealing on their own, no matter how they are prepared.’’

What do you like to drink with a meal?

‘‘It depends on the food. With food that is spicy or full of umami, it’s usually going to be craft beer. With food that is more dependent on herbs for its flavors, I’d say wine, usually red or rosé.’’

What is the most unusual thing you’ve ever eaten or drank?

‘‘Chicken feet at a dim sum meal. I’m glad to have tried the dish, but I was never tempted to eat them again.’’

In terms of junk food, what is your favorite guilty pleasure?

‘‘Trader Joe’s salt-and-pepper ridge cut potato chips. It’s hard to stop eating them once I’ve started.’’

Which three Valley restaurants, breweries or bars do you frequent the most?

‘‘I’m pretty adamant about rotating through different restaurants and am usually the one protesting when the family wants to go to the same favorite places over and over. Nevertheless, here are three that are on my mind right now. Pho Thanh has good, inexpensive Vietnamese food in a bustling, no-frills atmosphere. I can count on everyone in the family leaving full with my wallet not too empty. The needless apostrophe drives me crazy, but the food at Taco Boy’s never fails and the downtown Phoenix location is near my office. I especially like the barbacoa and the salsa bar. Gilbert is outside my usual territory, but I really admire what Joe Johnson has done there, and his Joe’s Real BBQ delivers a consistent high-quality experience.’’

What place that you’ve never tried would you like to?

‘‘Binkley’s or Christopher’s at Wrigley Mansion. Both sound great, and I need to make the time to experience them.’’

What place do you think is underrated or under-appreciated?

‘‘Four Peaks Brewing on Eighth Street in Tempe has gotten a lot of flak since the acquisition by AB InBev a few years ago, but I still enjoy the beer and food every time I go.’’

What’s your favorite place to take out-of-town visitors?

‘‘It depends on the person and their taste, but I usually want to show off how much more vibrant the urban side of Phoenix has become, so I might take them downtown to a place like Pa’la.’’

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